Here's the Camaro's sound system:
In the well of the trunk are 12v car batteries. Those are connected to the A/B/AB/off marine switch you see at lower right center. This allows me to choose to run both the front battery and the rear set, and charge the rear set at the same time as the front battery from the car's high-current alternator. Or I can select just B, and run the audio system exclusively off the rear battery set. This is good when the car is off, that way you can't kill the front battery and be unable to drive away. Off is also good for maintenance; that 1 farad cap can melt a small screwdriver; once the batteries are disconnected, the cap can be discharged with a resistor in a few seconds.
To the lower left is a remote CD changer. The bar nearest the rear of the car is a blue fluorescent that lights the system at night; you can see that in the other picture. In the center is a high current custom choke that prevents alternator whine and such from getting into the amps. As you see it, it's been bypassed for a DB/power competition (it also limits total current.) I take the bridge off for normal use and for fidelity competitions.
Between the choke and the cap, basically no charging system noise reaches the amps or crossover. To the left of the choke is a 1 farad capacitor. This is not local bass power storage, the way these are usually used; instead it serves as smoothing for the choke's output, a different role entirely. Max draw ahead of the choke is a smoothed 140 amps with the alternator keeping the batteries at 13.8 volts, not high current compared to modern maxed out systems. When the choke is bypassed, the system will pull as much as 240 amps. The choke really does limit the total amount of power when its inline, but in return, you get really good fidelity... that's why it's there.
Extreme right and left are heavily modified custom power amps for the dual independent 15" subs running bridged at about 700 watts RMS each. So that's 1400 clean, continuous watts for bass bypassed, probably about a thousand available for peaks and perhaps 700 continuous with the choke inline.
On top, in the center, is a 2-channel, 3-way active crossover. Left and right of it are two-channel power amps. Each one drives a midrange and a tweeter.
The box itself has replaced the rear seat, and is mounted on a removable frame that comes out with a couple of bolts, allowing the seat to go back in.
For maintenance, the entire system lifts out of the frame with two handles, after detaching a few plugs and cables and moving the CD player. The frame is a custom steel welded assembly that prevents the box from going forward in case of an accident. In the box are two 15" subs in chambers isolated from one another (because they're independent), two sealed mids, and two sealed tweeters. Each of the six drivers has its own amp and individual feed, EQ and level from the active crossover.
The car has audio matting in all the doors and panels. I've had passengers ask me to turn it up with the windows closed, and then complain that their chests "felt funny" after getting a good thumping.
Me, I wear earplugs for that kind of craziness or else avoid being in the car entirely. I built it up for fun, not to make my eardrums meet in the middle. :-)
Anyway, the whole audio block is gone now, my "lift it out with two handles" design served some thief very well. This spring I'll be putting the seats back after I get them cleaned (they've been in storage since about 1992, which is when I started building this thing) and I think it'll be time to mount a Paxton blower and enjoy the car as a road warrior for a while. I'm really pretty fond of it.
Here's a shot of it set up with big feet for 1/4 mile: